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The Adirondack chair, known for its wide arms and arching back, has been a celebrated tradition for generations. Whether on your porch or at the beach, this timeless ornament blends perfectly into any outdoor environment. With countless designs available, it is simple to bring a piece of the Adirondacks to your own backyard.
When selecting lumber for this project, take into account its tolerance of the elements. We've chosen Douglas fir, as it weathers nicely and has a decent weight.
Materials:
Use Douglas fir
One 1" x 12" x 9'
One 1" x 6" x 9'
One 2" x 4" x 4'
Square head decking screws 1 ½ inch
Weatherproof glue
Tools:
Table saw
Jig saw
Hand drill
Directions:
1. Using 12" wide Douglas fir, rip for the arms, 6" wide and cut at 26 5/8" long. For the back, leave at 11 5/16" and cut at 36" long. Legs ripped to 5 1/8" and cut 28" long. Using wider stock, rip your vertical legs to 2 1/8" and cut at 20 ½" long.
2. Make a cardboard stencil for your curved cutouts - back, arms, arm support and legs. Trace them onto your ripped wood to size and then, using a band saw or jigsaw, cut out your shapes. Paddle shaped armrests 26 5/8" long, 2 1/3" narrow back ends and a curved 6" wide front end. Next draw out your elegant long back support - 34" outside length with a simple curve on both sides peaking in the middle at 36" high with a total width of 11 5/16".
3. For your arm supports you will want to have a shape that is almost as wide as your armrest 5 1/2" wide at the top. A good shape for the support is half a heart-shape with a flat top.
4. Legs are 1" thick, 28" long, 5 1/8" wide, with a gentle curve removed to set in the seat slats, tapering down as low as 4 ½" at lowest seat point.
5. Now that your two legs are complete you will add your first seat slat, 21 ¾" x 1 7/8" x 1", at the top of the curve at the back of your seat, screw that in and then using a 3/8 wide spacer screw in the next 5 slats alternating with the spacer.
6. From the inside of the large slanted leg screw your front support legs - 20 ½" x 2 1/8" x 1 ½" - at right angle to the ground. The distance from the ground to the bottom of the long slanted leg should be 7 ½" at the front.
7. Start squaring up the chair. A front crosspiece is butted with one screw centered on each side of the long slanted legs at the front of the chair. The width between the two vertical legs is 20 1/8". This piece is 1" thick and has an angle precut at the top to receive the last slat to be added at the front of the seat. The piece is 3 ¾" in the front and 3 3/8" in the back, approximately 45 degree angle on the top of your board.
8. Now measure the distance between the two vertical legs and complete the seat by adding on wider slats, spaced using the same spacer as before. This board measures 19 13/16" x 3 ¾" x 1".
9. Take your large armrests and place them on your front vertical leg, flush up the flat large part of the armrest to the leg and allow 4" of overhang toward the front. Add one screw from the top of the armrest into your vertical leg. Repeat on the other side, supporting your armrests if necessary.
10. Attach your curved armrest supports using glue and one screw from the inside of your vertical leg. Although this piece may seem decorative it actually is a support system for your wide armrests.
11. Turn your chair around so you are facing the back, attach a precut cross support (24 1/8" x 1 3/8" x 1" that has been mitered length wise on the side that will face to the front) by placing it beneath the arms and flush up the ends. Screw the two pieces together from the top center of the back of the armrest 7/8 from the back, on both sides.
12. On the bottom of your backrest mark a line across the bottom 1 ½" up. Come in 1 ½" from both sides and mark for screws. It will be easier if you preset the screws here - extra hands or support will help.
13. Now attach the back to the last seat slat at the back. Do not screw all the way in because you will complete your squaring of the chair in these next two steps.
14. Come in on your cross support and mark 1 ½ and lightly screw through the support and into the back of the chair.
15. Time to square your entire chair one screw at a time. Add glue, then tighten the remaining screws as you feel the chair has become square.
Special Thanks:
Dan Benarcik
Supplies:
Paint for the chair
Humphrey's Building Supply Center
www.BuildWithTheH.com