If climbing up a few steps will give you a better view of your garden, a quiet retreat with a friend, or a sense of grandeur, then making a lifeguard chair could be for you.

Woodworker, Sylven Medyesy went to her local beach and took pictures and measurements of the lifeguard chair there. In order to have the chair best suit your needs, Sylven recommends making a mock-up, figuring out the widths and angles that will give you the most comfort. For your mock-up use any type of wood; it can be recycled or used for something else when you are done. Sylven chose Alaskan yellow cedar. Although more expensive, this wood is superior for the outdoors and will weather and age to a beautiful silver grey with no treatment. The wood itself has a very fine grain and is incredibly soft and smooth - perfect for sitting on without getting a splinter!

Materials:

Tools:

Directions:

2. Cut two lengths of 2" x 4" x 8' (For all 2" x 4" the true size is 1 5/8" x 3 ½") to a length of 88" - these are the back vertical frames. These will need angles cut top and bottom.

3. Cut two lengths of 2" x 4" x 8' to a length of 76"- these are the front vertical frames. These will need angles cut top and bottom.

4. Cut two lengths of 2" x 4" x 8' to a length of 58 1/2" (The leftover from these cuts can be used for mid arm rest support later) - these are the front to back side frames. These will need angles to match front and back vertical frames.

5. Cut two lengths of 2" x 4" x 8' to a length of 70" - these are the back cross supports. Both ends will have angles that will be determined when squaring the frame. Also the length will be determined and equaled on both back cross supports in order to determine a square frame.

6. Cut four steps from two 2" x 4" x 8' to a length of 47 ½". Put 3 steps aside and keep one step close by for the assembly of main structure.

7. Cut back bottom support from a 2" x 4" x 8' to a length of 47 ½".

8. This is when you will determine all your angles with a mock up to suit your comfort. If you are going to use your mock-up as final lifeguard chair, simply fill any extra holes with wood fill, let dry, sand and paint the chair.

9. Cut all angles on all four vertical frames.

10. Lay down one front vertical frame. Lay down one back vertical frame. Then lay down one front to back side frame across the two pieces 3 ½" up from bottom. Angle the front vertical frame at roughly 80 degrees from the inside angle (you can determine the exact angle you want during your mock up). Angle the back vertical frame approx. 70 degrees inside angle. Mark on the front to back support the outside lines of the verticals and cut angle on chop saw.

11. Screw together these three pieces placing screws on a diagonal.

12. Repeat this process for the other side with same pieces.

13. Hold up these two pieces vertically 44" apart parallel. Screw on the bottom step even with the front to back supports - screw from the front, two screws one on top of the other center to the front vertical frame.

14. To square up the frame, mark off the back cross supports where they cross the back vertical frame top and bottom. The two cross pieces need to be the same lengths in order for frame to be square. Now that they are marked, cut with the chop saw appropriate lengths and angles. (Estimated measurements- 66" on the inside and out with a 45 degree angle).

15. Screw inside pieces on from the inside. One back cross support is screwed to outside of the back vertical frame and one is screwed to inside of back vertical frame. Both start just above top of the bottom back support.

16. Even though you are half way through the chair should already be quite solid.

17. At the front of the chair screw on the next 3 steps which you already cut in step # 6, 10 ½" apart. Screw in same way as bottom step (see step 13).

18. Cut a foot slat support from a 2" x 4", there will be an angle at the back where the slat meets the back vertical frame, 90 degrees at the front and then measure top length 46 ½" and bottom length 47 5/8", which will create the angle you will need. Draw a line between lengths and cut on chop saw. Screw on from the inside into the front vertical frame and back vertical frame.

19. Repeat step #18 for other side.

20. Rip four foot slats from 2" x 4", 2 ¾" wide and cut at 44" long. Start foot slats flush to the front of the top step. Screw, two screws on each end from the top of slats into foot slat supports with a 1" space between each slat.

21. Having already determined the angle, cut the seat rest, 44 3/8" bottom long side by 43 ½" top short side. The seat rest support is screwed from the inside into the foot rest support. And from the back screw in through the top of the back vertical frame and in on an angle from the inside of the back vertical frame. Repeat on both sides.

22. Before you attach seat slats add on your armrest supports and backrest support. The second armrest support (the first being the front vertical frame) goes at an angle flush to the bottom of the seat rest support, 7 ¼" from the back of the front vertical frame (measuring 26 ¼" on the front and 26" on the back- two different angles top and bottom). The supports live on the outside of the frame but are screwed from the inside.

23. Measure back 12 ¼" from the second armrest support and screw again from inside your backrest support. (During mock-up check for your comfort angle). Start flush to the seat rest support, cut 36 ¾" long on the front and 36" on the back (bottom and top will have 2 separate angles mark them in place before cutting). The back vertical frame has a top angle cut that corresponds with the seat rest support angle.

24. Screw back rest support from the inside, into foot rest support and seat rest support. And from back, screw in through the top of back vertical frame and in on an angle from inside of back vertical frame. Repeat on both sides.

25. It is time to add your seat slats, arm rest and back slats.

26. A 45 degree detail is added to the armrest for more comfort. Corners of 2" x4" are cut off on a chop saw at 45 degree angles, 1" in. And the armrest is cut at 30 ¼" long. Armrests are centered with a 2" hang over the front vertical frame and screwed twice from the top.

27. Four seat slats are ripped from the 2" x 4" stock to 2 ¾" and cut at 47 ½". The four slats screwed twice on each side from the top into the support below, starting at the middle armrest support and evenly spaced at 1" towards the back.

28. Then three backrest slats are ripped from the 2" x 4" at 2 ¾" and cut at 47 ½". Starting 6 ¾" up from the back of the seat and 1 5/8" below the top of the back vertical frame, the three backrest slats are added and spaced 1" apart as you attach them below.

29. If you like add an umbrella by attaching two metal tube holders to seat rest support and foot platform support directly behind the back vertical frame.

30. Insert a plastic tube with a capped bottom 32 ½" and add umbrella into tube.

Special Thanks:
Sylven Medyesy
http://sylvenwoodworks.com