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Tripod orchard ladders are one of the primary tools used in harvesting apples and other tree fruit. Their tapered form allows the ladder to fit between the branches of the tree when picking fruit and the tripod makes it more stable on uneven ground. Like many workaday objects, the simple and elegant form of the orchard ladder is a wonderful inspiration for a plant stand. Our stand was built with small begonias and African violets in mind but would look equally good covered with curios from trips and a miniature fern or two. Orchard ladders were traditionally made of long-lasting and strong hardwoods such as elm, so consider splurging on elm or oak for your downsized version and it will last for years to come. Materials:One 1"x6"x8' oak board Tools:Table saw Directions:1. Use miter saw to cut a 49 ½" length from each 1"x6" board. Use table saw to rip down the lengths to 4 ½" wide. Set aside7/8" pieces to be used as cross braces. 2. Set miter saw blade to 20 degrees (to the right) and to a 4 degree bevel. To create left rail, first lay one 4 ½" board flat and cut right end. Then slide board to the right of the blade and trim left end such that final length is 47". 3. Set miter saw blade to 20 degrees to the left (retaining 4 degree bevel). Repeat steps above in #2 to create right rail. 4. Install ¾" dado blade on table saw. Set blade to height of 3/8" and to a bevel of 4 degrees. 5. Create 4 slots on the inside of each rail, for the steps of ladder. Starting 3" from bottom of rail, dado blade a ¾" slot parallel to the cut ends. Position the cut so the deeper side of slot (resulting from the bevel) is at top of slot. Also use a piece of scrap wood on backside of cut to prevent blowout of rail material. Dado each of three remaining slots 10" up from top of previous slot. 6. Use remaining 1"x6" stock for steps. Set miter saw to 4 degrees in order to bevel both sides of each step. Cut steps to lengths (measured on longest edge): 23", 20 ½", 18", 15 5/8". 7. Cut top step (or cap) to 14 ½"x5 3/16". 8. Reinstall finish blade on table saw and set blade to 20 degrees. Bevel cut the long sides of each step; produce steps 4 ¾" wide. When installed, step edges beveled edges will sit flush with angle of rails. 9. Dry fit steps into slots on rails and pilot drill two holes into ends of each step through rails. Countersink each hole. Disassemble, glue, and secure steps with 1 ¼" wood screws. 10. Center cap and attach with glue and 1 ¼" wood screws. 11. Cut to size tripod brace using 1"x2" stock. Brace length should be ¾"x1 ½"x44 3/8" with 10 degree angles at either end. 12. Create 1"x3" cleat with a 10 deg bevel length-wise and attach to the underside of cap. Position cleat 1" in from back edge of cap and center between the ends. Fasten with two 1 ¼" wood screws. 13. Create two 20 ¾"x7/8"x¾" cross braces connecting tripod leg to the underside of second step with excess material from initial cuts. Set miter saw blade to 24 degrees (to the right). Install a fence on the miter saw to position the brace material perpendicular to the saw's fixed fence (i.e. parallel to the blade) and cut the end of each brace at a 24 degree angle. Remove the second fence so the braces can be positioned against the saw's fixed fence (i.e. perpendicular to the blade) and set the blade to a 10 degree bevel (while retaining the 24 angle). Cut other end of left brace to a length of 20 ¾". Reposition the blade 24 degrees to the left with 10 degree bevel and cut other end of right brace. 14. Position tripod leg against cleat on underside of cap, predrill, countersink, and secure with screws. Attach cross braces and secure with screws through predrilled and countersunk holes. 15. Cover all screws with 3/8" dowel except two attaching tripod leg to cleat and braces to second step. Leave these accessible so tripod leg can be removed. Glue dowels and cut them flush. 16. After glue dries, sand ladder and apply finish of choice. |
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